Traveller Changing Frequency

Hairiness is found to increase over the traveller replacement cycle because of traveller wear. With traveller wear traveller flutter occurs during flight, which leads to increased abrasion. Rate of increase in hairiness is initially slow but after a point of time becomes rapid as shown in Fig 4. For hosiery, sewing threads and p/c blends, where low hairiness is desired, traveller replacement frequency has to be kept low.
Fig 4: Variation of hairiness over traveler changing cycle

New Traveller Design

Newer Ring and traveller designs like Spicon of BRT and Orbit by Rieter have been developed to reduce traveler wear. With such designs the traveller in its running position lies in a plane close to resultant of all forces acting on it and as a result traveller tilt is minimum. As a result, hairiness is lower with such ring/traveller combinations. Moreover round wire cross-section could be used without compromise on speeds.

Ring

Flange No, type and wear influence hairiness considerably

Flange No

Higher flange number gives more space for passage of yarn and will reduce hairiness. But taveller wear will be more and higher speeds cannot be achieved in finer counts. Normally No 2 flange should be used up to 20^s count and No1 flange should be used for counts 30^s and above. For bringing down hairiness, No 2 flange may be used in counts of border range.

Wear and tear

Worn out ring is a major cause of hairiness and variation in hairiness in a mill⁴². When wear is pronounced, the bobbins are highly hairy and exhibit whisker like defects. The extent of deterioration in appearance of bobbin can be seen from Fig 5 (Left side bobbin) from a mill where rings where not changed for 9 years and were extremely worn out15b. Upon replacing the rings a substantial reduction of hairiness is seen as found from right side bobbin in the same Fig.5

When rings are more than 3 years old hairiness starts increasing. Replacement of rings will bring significant reduction in hairiness. Some typical results are given in Table 2, to show the effect of ring life on hairiness.

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Table 2: Effect of ring life on hairiness

Yarns spun on pilot plant ring frame give lower hairiness³⁵ and higher strength⁴³ than those on mill’s ring frame though same roving bobbins were used as feed material. This is because rings in pilot plant ring frame are worn out to a lesser extent than mills ring frame because of less running.

Lappet

Abrasion against lappet is a source of hairiness. This gets aggravated when lappet is grooved or is worn out. Some manufacturers have come out with glass finish lappet, which minimizes friction and thereby reduces hairiness. Height of lappet above the ring bobbin has to be optimized to reduce not only end breaks but also hairiness. If lappet to bobbin tip distance is high, balloon will be longer. This will reduce twist flow and also increase area of contact between yarn and lappet. As a result hairiness will be higher. Controlled studies³⁵ have shown a lower hairiness with reduction in lappet height. Care should however be taken to ensure that yarn does not touch bobbin tip while lowering lappet height.

Disturbed Spindle Centering
Disturbed spindle centering is one of the major causes for the spindle-to-spindle variation in hairiness. On spindles where centering is disturbed hairiness is found to be higher and upon accurate centering hairiness comes down significantly³⁶. When spindle is not centered traveler movement is not smooth because of peak tensions in yarn. Traveller tilts and flutter also increases leading to higher hairiness.

Separator

Plastic separator will increase hairiness because of static generation. Disturbed, slanting and bent separators generate hairiness because of excessive dashing of balloon on separator

Spindle and bobbin vibrations
Vibration of spindle arises because of worn out spindle tip and bearing. Bobbin vibrations arise not only from spindle vibration but also from eccentricity in bobbin and improper fit. When bobbin vibrates hairiness increases because of uneven traveller flight.

Plastic Bobbin
Plastic bobbins generally give more hairiness than wooden bobbins especially with polyester blend yarns. This is because of static generation.

Relative Humidity
Recommended humidity in ring frame department is 55 – 60%. At higher humidity levels, fibres tend to stick to drafting rollers resulting in protruding hairs and loops. At low humidity levels static generation causes repulsion of fibres, particularly with p/v and p/c blends, leading to more hairiness.
Winding
Hairiness increases in winding^{44, 45,46,47,48}. This is because of abrasion of yarn against tension disc, guide eyes, balloon breakers and winding drum. Extent of increase varies from 50 to 150%. Extent of increase in hairiness increases with winding speed⁴⁵. Lang et al^{47, 48} showed, through a theoretical analysis, that hairiness increase takes place mainly at tension discs because of frictional resistance offered by disc surface to projecting hairs. As the yarn moves forward, these fibres get pulled out of yarn. Loosely bound surface fibres may also become projecting hairs because of rubbing action. The authors used a parameter K and a critical length to estimate the effect of winding on hairiness increase. Friction coefficient between yarn and friction disc has the maximum influence on K. Increase in initial tension of yarn will reduce generation of hairiness.

 A very interesting finding of practical significance is that initial level of hairiness in ring yarn has considerable influence on the extent of increase in hairiness in winding⁴⁹. Ring bobbins judged to be more hairy and less hairy were selected from a ring frame in a mill spinning 60s. The yarns were separately wound on Autoconer. Hairiness of ring yarns and wound yarns are given in Table3.
Table3 Increase in hairiness upon winding with yarns of different levels of hairiness, hairs/m

Short length hairs increase by 4-4.5 times with winding with ‘less hairy’ yarns. But with ‘more hairy’ yarns, short length hairs do not increase with winding. Long length hairs however show an increase with winding with both ‘less hairy’ and ‘more hairy’ bobbins.

Longer hairs being on the surface of yarn are more likely to come in contact with tension disc and so get pulled out because of frictional resistance. This is the reason why they increase with both type of yarns. With ‘ more hairy yarns’ the surface of yarn body and short length hairs are well buried under long length hairs and therefore do not come into contact with the tension disc. There is therefore no generation of short length hairs at tension disc and short length hairs therefore do not show an increase with winding with such yarns. Moreover, with ‘hairy’ yarns, most of the fibres whose ends are loosely anchored on the surface have already developed into hairs in ring frame itself because of abrasion at traveler/ring junction. Therefore there are fewer such fibres that can develop into in to hairs during winding. This is not the case with ‘less hairy’ yarns as there are many loosely anchored fibres in the yarns. The work of Dash et al⁵⁰ supports this winding. The authors found that hairiness increase in winding is more in compact yarns (which have low hairiness) than normal yarns. 

Modifications to reduce hairiness

Compact Spinning

As pointed out earlier, major cause for hairiness is the spinning triangle at front roller delivery point, which restricts flow of twist up to nip.  In compact spinning, a condensing zone is introduced after normal drafting zone, as shown in Fig 6. As a result, the strand width becomes closer to yarn diameter and the size of spinning triangle is considerably reduced. Selvedge fibres get fully integrated into yarn and projecting fibres are markedly reduced.

 Fig 6: Comparison of Compact and Normal spinning

Several manufacturers have developed compact spinning based on different versions of condensing system.

Zinser Aircom Tex

Condensing zone has a pair of rollers in front of regular drafting. The top roller drives an apron, which has a set of perforations in the middle. The drafted strand is guided underneath the apron. The perforations consist of elliptical and circular pores. The apron runs over a profile tube, which has a slot in the region S (Fig 7) through which suction is applied. The strand follows the perforation track of the apron thereby getting condensed.

 Fig 7: Zinser Aircom Tex Compact Spinning

Suessen EliTe

The condensing zone consists of a lattice apron, located at the bottom and driven by the delivery top roller as shown in Fig 8. The apron runs over a profile tube, which has a slot S, at the middle. Suction is applied through the slot. Front top roller of drafting system drives the delivery top roller through a gear. The diameter of delivery roller is slightly higher than front roller of drafting system, due to which the fibres in the strand are delivered in a straightened condition. Air drawn through inclined slot causes rotation of fibres around their axis, which contributes to better integration of short fibres into strand.

Fig 8: Suessen  EliTe compact system

Rieter comforspin system (Fig 9)

A perforated drum replaces the front bottom roller of drafting (fig 9). A stationery insert, I, with a specially designed suction slot, in the middle over a length S, is located inside the drum. Apart from the normal top roller a second nip roller, with weighting, is also placed on the drum. Condensation of strand takes place in the zone between the top roller and nip roller As a result of suction inside the drum, the fibres follow the suction slot and get condensed. An air guide element ensures that suction operates in the slot area. The system is suitable only cottons beyond 1.07 inch length and is therefore applicable for finer counts.

Fig 9:  Rieter Comforspin Compact spinning system

Toyota RX240NewEST

Condensing unit is similar to Suessen and consists of a pair of delivery rollers and a perforated apron running over a suction tube with a suction slot. Condensing takes place as the perforations span a narrow width. Delivery rollers, driven by gear, drive the apron. Each condensing unit covers 4 spindles and can be conveniently dismantled. Retrofitting to Toyota normal ring frameRX240New is possible

 

Rotocraft

Instead of suction, Rotorcraft and Lakshmi machine works make use of a magnetic compacting system to condense the strand. Front bottom roller supports two top rollers in between which a magnetic compactor is placed. The compactor is pressed against the bottom roller by permanent magnets. The shape of the compactor enables condensation of strand. The main merit of this system is that it can be retrofitted into an existing ring frame, which should bring down the cost. Further power required to produce air suction and costs associated with it are reduced.

Cognotex

Compact spinning machine is similar to Rieter Comforspin for long staple fibres like wool. Angled balloon rollers are used as front rollers in the compacting zone to accommodate longer fibres.

Officine Gaudino

This is also for long fibres. Instead of suction, mechanical compacting is done. A smooth bottom front roller and angled top roller are located in front of drafting zone. The axle of top roller is in a slanting position in relation to axle of bottom roller. These rollers run at a slightly slower speed than the front roller of drafting. The negative draft, thus created, together with offset top roller create a false twisting action, which condenses the strand. The system can be retrofitted to an existing ring frame. A noticeable feature of the system is the much lower cost (only 20% higher than normal ring frame) compared to other compacting systems (where costs are 200-250%higher than normal). 

Considerable reduction in hairiness by compact spinning has been reported by many authors^{51,52,53,54,55,56,57}. The extent of reduction varies with the type of raw material, current levels of hairiness, type of compact spinning, count and twist factor. On an average reduction in hairiness is about 10 – 30 % in Uster Hairiness index and about 50 – 80 % in S₃ values. Reduction in hairiness is more with short staple cottons and those with high short fibre content than with long staple cottons and those with low short fibre content ^58,59. As mentioned earlier there is a significant negative correlation between hairiness and fibre length and fibre length uniformity in normal yarns. But the correlation reduces with compact spinning because of higher order of reduction in hairiness with short staple and non - uniform cottons⁵⁹. With long staple cottons with high uniformity ratio, there is not much reduction in hairiness with compact spinning.

Fibre length distribution of projecting hairs follows an exponential distribution^60,61,23. While Barella^60,61 found that data falls in 2 or 3 different segments, Wang et al²³ found that in the case of worsted yarns, the data fits in one single curve. Hairiness is plotted against hair length based on the data of Celik et al⁵⁵ and Nikolic et al⁵³ in Figs 10 and 11

Fig 11: Variation of hairiness with hair length in cotton yarn

 

Hairiness reduction with compact spinning becomes more marked above 2 mm length. Slope of hairiness versus hair length on semi logarithmic scale is not linear but appears to be curvilinear especially in the case of cotton yarns. It could be considered as made up of several linear segments with varying slopes as proposed by Barella and Manich⁶¹. In the case of woolen yarns, the departure from linearity is only slight. 

Extent of reduction in hairiness obtained with compact spinning with different hair length is given in Fig 12. 

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Fig 12:  Reduction of hairiness with compact spinning for various hair lengths

 

Reduction in hairiness increases with hair length in all the cases and the increase is more prominent beyond 2mm length. This means that long length hairs are more effectively reduced in compact spinning. Long length hairs are generally more objectionable from the point of view of appearance and breakages and performance in subsequent stages. Compact spinning is therefore preferable with high quality apparel material and modern weaving units with shuttless looms.

. Strength of yarn improves by 5– 15% and elongation by 5-8% in compact spinning. Strength improvement is more prominent at low twists and in 100% cotton yarns^62,63 In normal yarns projecting fibres do not fully contribute to yarn strength. When these fibres are fully integrated into yarn as in compact spinning their contribution to yarn strength and elongation improves. This is the reason for the increase in strength and elongation of yarn in compact spinning. Strength improvement is also more with short staple cottons and those with high short fibre content because of higher order of reduction in hairiness. Basal and Oxenham⁶² examined the structure of compact and normal yarn using a tracer fibre technique and image analysis application version 3.0.Compact yarns have a high rate and amplitude of migration, which is likely to improve inter fibre friction. This may be another reason for the higher strength of these yarns. Yarns from compact spinning, with a lower twist factor, have a lower hairiness and comparable strength with normal yarn with normal twist factor ^55,63. This means that higher productivity can be achieved in compact spinning which should enable rapid payback of investment. Carded compact yarns have a lower hairiness and broadly comparable strength with combed normal yarn⁶³. An interesting feature is that carded compact yarns have a higher strength than combed normal yarns with cottons having low short fibre content. But with cottons having high short fibre content, combed normal yarn has higher strength than carded compact yarns. Overall, there appears to be scope for reducing comber noil with compact spinning. This provides another avenue for getting rapid return on investment. However, it must be noted that normal combed yarns have a lower Uster U%, imperfections and better appearance than carded compact yarns This is because improvements from combing arise not only from removal of short fibres but also from removal of neps and parellelisation. Except in some isolated cases, there is no reduction in Uster evenness and imperfections in compact spinning. This is because drafting conditions determine irregularity and condensing the strand has little effect on it. 

Comparison of Compact Spinning systems

Of the three systems, condensing zone is used after normal drafting zone in Zinser and Suessen. In Rieter, condensing is done on the front bottom roller of drafting system itself. A bigger diameter front bottom roller (drum) is used for this purpose and this increases the setting length in front zone. This restricts the use of this system for long staple cottons. Between Zinser and Suessen, condensation of strand takes place right up to delivery point in the Suessen system. In zinser, strand traverses a small distance after release from condensing zone before it reaches delivery nip. This can result in partial loss of condensation. But the suction slot is much wider and bigger in Zinser than in Suessen and Rieter systems. This improves the condensation and minimizes choke up of perforations. Further, suction level is also more in Zinser. Hairiness reduction is found to be better with Suessen system compared to Zinser in the work of Nikolic et al⁵³ (shown in Fig 12). This could be because condensation takes place right up to delivery nip in the Suessen system. However, contrary results were found by Goktepe et al⁶⁴ who have compared the three compacting systems*. They found the system with apron at the top (Zinser), had the lowest hairiness value. Compact spinning system with apron at the bottom (Suessen) has the highest hairiness value and the system where front bottom roller is replaced by drum (Rieter) has an intermediate hairiness value in coarse to medium counts (21^s and 31^s). This may be because of bigger suction area and suction pressure in Zinser system. High variations in hairiness and higher irregularity were also observed in the system with apron at the bottom due to choke up of fibre and dust under perforations. Rieter system however gives the lowest hairiness value in medium to fine yarn (41^s)

Apart from hairiness reduction and strength improvement, compact spinning offers some other benefits which may help to pay back the higher cost of investment.

·        Twist factor can be reduced by 5-10%, without affecting the strength, which would increase ring frame productivity by a corresponding amount

·        Since majority of end breaks occur near the spinning triangle, end breakages will be lower because of smaller spinning triangle This offers scope for increasing spindle speed and for getting a higher productivity.

·        Though cost reduction can be achieved by use of a lower grade mixing and by reduction of comber noil, these are not recommended, as they will increase yarn irregularity and imperfections and downgrade appearance.

·        Size pick up can be reduced in sizing, as hairiness is low.

·        As yarn has a higher strength and elongation and lower hairiness, warp breaks will be lower in weaving. The resultant improvement in weaving efficiency will depend upon several factors like type of loom, loom speed, cloth construction etc; but on an average about 2 –5 % improvement can be obtained.
Compact spinning has however the following limitations

• The improvements in hairiness and strength are marginal with long staple cottons with higher uniformity in fibre length. The system may not be advantageous in combed counts as short fibre content will be low.
• Hairiness of yarn will increase in winding and the extent of increase is also higher than that in normal yarns.
• Power consumption will be higher as power is required to run suction motor
• Maintenance and cleaning cost will be higher as the perforated aprons, slots have to be cleaned regularly.

Solo Spinning
Woolmark, CSIRO and WRONZ have developed Solospun system for reducing hairiness in wool and wool blend yarns. This is a clip on attachment to front top roller of drafting, which holds solospun rollers, shown in Fig 13. Solospun roller is placed just below the front top roller and rests on bottom roller and loaded by means of a spring. The surface of solospun roller is made up of 4 segments separated by land, which is flush with the roller surface. There are a series of slots that are offset in each segment. Twist flow to front roller is intermittently blocked by this arrangement and as a result drafted strand is split in to a number of sub strands. Twist passing through the solospun roller twists the sub strands. Upon emerging from solospun roller, the sub strands are twisted into yarn by final twist. As a result the protruding fibres are entrapped into the yarn and final yarn has fewer protruding fibres. Twisting principle of solospun yarn has been studied by Cheng et al⁶⁵. Solospun worsted yarns have significantly lower number of S3 hairs and hairiness index⁶⁶. Hair length distribution of solospun yarn follows exponential distribution.

Fig 13: Solospun spinning system
Wrapped yarn
Filament wrapping is another means to reduce hairiness by binding the protruding fibres on the yarn body. The filament is fed, through a guide fitted above front top roller, to the strand emerging from front roller. Twist introduced during spinning will wrap the filament round the yarn body. Stop motion has to be fitted to each spindle to stop the production in the event of filament/roving break or exhaust.

False twisting in winding
Though compact spinning reduces hairiness, the benefits obtained are partially lost in winding as hairiness increases in winding as shown in Fig 13. The extent of increase is also more with compact yarns.Fig 13 : Increse in hairiness with winding with normal and compact yarn
By passing the yarn through an air jet nozzle unit or any other false twisting arrangement prior to winding, hairiness can be reduced and several manufacturers have come out with such systems. Fig 14 shows an outline of an air jet nozzle unit in winding
Fig 15: Air jet nozzle in winding The swirling air in the air jet unit wraps the protruding fibres around the yarn body. The merits of such attachments compared to compact spinning are low investment

Retrofitting to an existing winding machine is possible. Muratec has developed an air jet device known as Perla A, which is fitted on their Process coner 21C. Savio has developed a ‘hairless device’ consisting of air jet nozzle. The geometry and shape of the air jet has to be designed carefully to achieve entangling and wrapping effect of protruding fibres. Muratec has also developed another unit Perla D where instead of air nozzle, a disc driven by servomotor, is used to give false twist to yarn. Winding speed up to 1800 and 1200 m/m can be achieved with Perla A and Perla D respectively. The benefits obtained in compact spinning can be maintained by using such a false twisting unit in winding, as shown in Fig 12. Hairiness increases in normal winding but with an air jet suction unit hairiness in wound yarn is maintained close to that in ring bobbin. Several authors have reported significant reduction in hairiness by air jet nozzle in winding^67,68,69. Air pressure and type and size of air nozzle have influence over the extent of reduction in hairiness. Higher air pressure and lower orifice angle give greater reduction in hairiness^68,69,70. Strength is unaffected and a marginal deterioration in evenness of yarn is found with air jet unit. Computer fluidic dynamics was used to simulated airflow pattern inside the jets⁷¹. Air velocity in the core of the jet leads to wrapping of protruding fibres over the body of yarn. Two-phase model used to simulate wrapping of protruding hairs on yarn was attempted by Zeng et al⁷⁰. This showed that yarn hairiness reduction occurs because of wrapping of hairs on yarn. Optimum nozzle pressure of 1.5 - 2.5 bar and a jet orifice angle of 40 – 500 were found by this model. Too high a nozzle pressure and very low nozzle angle increase air recirculation zone and are therefore not advisable. It is not clear if the wrapped hairs will stay wrapped or will get released upon abrasion at next stage.

Air jet unit at Ring Frame
Studies have also been made to incorporate an air jet unit between lappet and front roller of ring frame^{72,73,74,75,76}. Yarn from front roller nip passes through the nozzle and compressed air is forced through an orifice into the nozzle. The air vortex produced by the air current winds the protruding fibres on the yarn body due to false twisting. After the yarn emerges from the air jet unit, real twist binds the wrapped fibres firmly into yarn. Starter yarn is fed to the lower end of the air jet unit and airflow sucks the yarn through it to facilitate piecing. Air pressure, orifice size and angle have considerable influence on hairiness reduction⁷⁰. Higher air pressure and smaller orifice size reduce hairiness to a greater extent but such nozzles are not preferable from working point of view. Too high nozzle pressure and low orifice angle increase air recirculation zone and so affect wrapping action. An air pressure of o.5kgf/cm2 is adequate to reduce hairiness⁷⁵. Nozzle distance of 10cm from front roller nip and nozzle angle of 450 gives best results in terms of yarn quality^75,76. Nozzle which produces air current in the same direction as that of yarn twist gives greater reduction in hairiness than that where air vortex is in opposite direction to yarn twist⁷³. On the other hand, airflow movement against the direction of yarn movement gives more reduction in hairiness75. Yarn evenness deteriorates significantly with the use of air jet in ring spinning. Fabrics made from yarns with air jet attachment as weft show a lower pilling tendency, which arises from lower hairiness. Use of air jet in ring spinning is still at experimental stage and most of the studies reported are on laboratory model spin tester. The effect of air jet unit on end breakage rates and piecing time, have to be still studied. No commercial versions of ring frame with air jet unit have so far been developed.

Relative merits of Compact Spinning and Air Jet in Winding
It would useful to consider the relative merits of compact spinning and Air jet unit in winding.Compact spinning involves much higher investment and retrofitting is also not possible in most of the systems. It should therefore be considered in products where hairiness plays a critical role like hosiery, high value apparels, sewing threads.

At the same time, compact spinning has the merit that it improves strength and elongation of yarn apart from hairiness. Twist in the yarn can be reduced enabling higher ring frame productivity. Higher spindle speed is also possible, as end breakages will be reduced.

Power cost will be higher with compact spinning

The benefits from compact spinning in terms of reduced hairiness is partially lost in winding as hairiness increases in winding

Air jet unit in winding involves lower cost, as retrofitting of the unit to an existing winding machine is possible.

Strength and elongation do not improve with air jet unit. Slight deterioration in evenness and imperfections is also seen with some yarns.

Thus to get full benefits from compact spinning, air jet unit should be incorporated in winding

Hairiness in different Spinning systems
Hairiness is higher in ring spinning than rotor, air jet and air vortex spinning systems Reasons for high hairiness in ring spinning have been discussed earlier.

Rotor Spinning
Fibres are well controlled in rotor and get attached to sweeping tail of yarn. Number of protruding ends is therefore lower but protruding loops are higher⁷⁷. Fibres are more densely packed near the centre and mean fibre position is closer to the center⁷⁸ in rotor yarn. Wrapper fibres bind any fibre protruding outside. As a result, hairiness is lower in rotor yarn than ring yarn19. Rotor yarns have about 20% lower hairiness than ring yarns⁷⁹. Higher twist and higher rotor speed reduce hairiness¹⁵. Plain naval with smooth surface reduces hairiness. Spiral shaped ceramic naval reduces hairiness⁸⁰. Naval with groove which is used for introducing false twist, increases hairiness because of rough surface.

Air Jet Spinning
In Murata air vortex yarns, core fibres have no twist and are wrapped by surface fibres. More than half of yarn cross-section is made of wrapper fibres. Uniformity of wrapping of wrapper fibres and higher number of wrapper fibres results in low hairiness in air vortex yarns. Soe et al81 found lowest hairiness, for hair length 3mm and above, with air vortex yarns followed by rotor yarns and ring yarns. As a result weight loss in enzymatic treatment is highest in ring spun yarns followed by open end and air jet yarns82. Higher delivery speed in air vortex spinning83,84 increases hairiness. Higher nozzle pressure reduces hairiness83,84 but adversely affects evenness of yarn. Higher nozzle angle and smaller spindle diameter reduce hairiness in air vortex spinning83. Air jet spinning is the first version of jet spinning and air vortex is the second improved version by Murata. In air jet spinning, edge fibres on the selvedge of drafted strand form wrapper fibres. In air vortex spinning, fibres in the selvedge region of emerging strand (which is about half of the total number of fibres) are thoroughly separated leading to higher number of wrapper fibres. Hairiness is therefore lower in air vortex spinning compared to air jet spinning85. While hairiness increases with cotton content in air jet, no such trend is found in air vortex spinning. So air vortex is more suitable for cotton rich blends.

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